I have a 648 which is essentially the same baler, and have struggled over the years to get the twine issues down to a minimum. Here's what I've learned:
1) Make sure the tension is properly set coming out of the roll through the first tension guide. Even a miniscule difference in tension can throw the operation off.
2) Make sure your knives are sharp and cut well, and that the cutter arm (left side) is greased well. It is spring-tensioned and this can be adjusted too, in case its not springing closed tight enough to cut completely.
3) Make sure you have enough hay feeding the chamber when the twine arms drop to the center. Either bigger/fluffier rows, or going faster, will help grab what twine is hanging.
Also, if the twine cutters do their job they will pinch and hold the twine in place while the tubes retract, giving you even more twine to be caught by the incoming hay. If it simply cuts the twine and doesn't hold, you might only have 2-4 inches of twine hanging out. Although this isn't necessary.
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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