I have seen rear wheel bearings burn up because no lube in hub, Always fill the hub and wipe little lube on the seal just before sliding on the axle. Also I always use a torque wrench tighten the nuts and preload them turning the wheel then back off and re torque the axle nuts. Big trucks and trailers was pre load to 100lbs back off and retighten to 50 loosen little so lock lines up. Never had one fail but have seen others over tighten the axle nuts and it takes out the bearing. Another thing the bearing companies said was not to wash your bearing unless you get it dirty. They had us wrap then in a shop rag after looking to see if they were not worn to keep the blowing sand or dirt off them. Worked for a major truck barn for over 30 years doing it. I'm sure other people have their way of doing it, but just sharing something I had learn years ago that works for me.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabricating Sidesheets - by Chris Pratt. The easiest and best first-time project for wanna-be sheet-metal workers like myself is flat or nearly flat metal cut and drilled to be a tractor's sidesheet. A sidesheet is sheetmetal to cover either the engine as in the case of early Oliver's, Massey-Harris' and many crawlers or the wiring and electrical components as in the case of the Massey-Harris Pony, Allis Chalmers' D Series (D-14, D-15, D-12, D-10, D-17, and D-19). The need for fabricating becomes obvious when you go to buy any of these
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