Provided the alternator mounting bolts are to good clean (NOT all paint or rust or grease covered) frame or engine members, the alternator frame to tractors frame should suffice for the Ground. If there happens to be a FRAME GROUND screw on the alternators case and it makes you feel better, use a stranded copper wire from there to the tractor frame or one of the mount bolts.
I take it the alternator is NEGATIVE Ground so be sure and connect the battery that way.
If its a coil distributor ignition the coils + receives switched voltage from the IGN switch while the - wires to the distributor.
If you remove the ammeter remember it used to make up the series connection from the gennys output to the ungrounded battery post, the alternators output has to get to the battery to charge it WELL DUH......The ammeters load (NOT to battery) terminal may have supplied hot battery voltage to loads like lights and ignition so insure those loads are now fed voltage.
I personally prefer an ammeter to actually show net charging current into a battery or net discharging current out of a battery, but if you like a voltmeter thats obviously your choice. Hey if a body had BOTH you could really be vigilant
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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