Provided the alternator mounting bolts are to good clean (NOT all paint or rust or grease covered) frame or engine members, the alternator frame to tractors frame should suffice for the Ground. If there happens to be a FRAME GROUND screw on the alternators case and it makes you feel better, use a stranded copper wire from there to the tractor frame or one of the mount bolts.
I take it the alternator is NEGATIVE Ground so be sure and connect the battery that way.
If its a coil distributor ignition the coils + receives switched voltage from the IGN switch while the - wires to the distributor.
If you remove the ammeter remember it used to make up the series connection from the gennys output to the ungrounded battery post, the alternators output has to get to the battery to charge it WELL DUH......The ammeters load (NOT to battery) terminal may have supplied hot battery voltage to loads like lights and ignition so insure those loads are now fed voltage.
I personally prefer an ammeter to actually show net charging current into a battery or net discharging current out of a battery, but if you like a voltmeter thats obviously your choice. Hey if a body had BOTH you could really be vigilant
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Today's Featured Article - Gettin My Old Tractor Home - by Clayton Sweeney. My name is Clayton Sweeney. I am from Southern Maryland in a small town called Lothian. I am 20 and my father and I are the proud owner of a 1954 Allis Chalmers WD-45. When I was 18, I dated a girl in the next county over. Her family are tobacco farmers. It was a cold Thanksgiving evening, and we were going up to her Grandparents house. As we passed one of their barns, I noticed something orange in the corner of my eye in this old shed. It was pretty dark and I asked what it was
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