Heater not working well indicates silicate drop out in the coolant coating the heater core (a very small radiator). Did you notice any white coating when the radiator cap was off? Engine manufacturers (at least the two I have worked for) don't like to recommend coolant system flush as most people don't get the flushing agent out and it decreases the effectiveness of coolant when it is reinstalled. Another way to check your system is the temp drop from to top of radiator, all of my experience is with heavy equipment but automotive applications should be about the same. If you have or can borrow a digital surface thermometer suggest checking the top vs. bottom of the radiator. When at operating temp heavy equipment will see a 12-14 deg. drop (plus or minus a couple of degrees). If you see something like a 30 degree drop the radiator is not doing its job, it is plugged internally or something.
I assume you have already checked the general stuff like fan drive, ensuring the fan shroud is in place, etc.
Some vehicles have air conditioning condensers and oil coolers stacked in front of the radiator. Assume none of this is plugged.
Air is also a terrible conductor of heat. If worse comes to worse cut the top radiator hose and install a clear plastic pipe and look for air bubbles with a flashlight.
Hope this helps, I worked in high altitude areas of the world for five years (air is thinner) and cooling system problems were common.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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