Well sir at the end of the charging cycle measure the voltage across each battery. They will be different unless they are identical. Most of the time the difference is small enough that it doesn't really matter. A lot of charging periods are interrupted when one of the batteries only has like an 85% fill and the other maybe a 89% fill. The voltage will differ by a few tenths of a volt but no big deal. My automatic charger gives a full charge green light with 4 amperes of charge current remaining. It's a Schumacher like you'd buy at TSC. Obviously if you are 4 amperes from a full charge where the current drops to zero, you are going to have different levels on the batteries.
Oh and the "full" charge is an arbitrary number which depends on several variables including temperature, sulfate in the battery, charger controls to name a few. Around here my Full charge number is 12.75v year round. Easy to remember and works for me.
MarkB, I know this is obvious but if you charge them in parallel, you need to use a 6v charger and they are hard to find these days.
On the charger failing, if your batteries were fully discharged and your charger was not the new electronic controlled charge rate variable, you could have put too many amps through it and yes burned up a wire internally.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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