I didn't gather from your post whether or not the knot was breaking over the bill hook or after the bale left the machine. If the knot is being broken as it is tied, the tension on the twine disc is too great. That adjustment is the bolt directly your pen, and, on the other side of the knotter frame, those little flat strips are the springs that bear against the twine holder. The bill hook pulls about 1/4" of twine from the twine disc as it (the bill hook) rotates. If it cannot pull out the twine, it breaks over the bill hook and no knot is tied in either end. If the knot is tied and breaks later, that is due to the stripper not contacting the bill hook and riding over the fibers, cutting them. Another possibility of a failed knot is a burr on the stripper arm in the vicinity of the twine, probably due to brutal adjustment of the stripper arm by a previous owner. The stripper arm should contact the bill hook 5/8" from the tip. The part you have removed is the cam to hold the bill hook jaw shut. The jaw is not supposed to open at all, other than when it is grabbing the twine. Too little tension on this cam will allow the jaw to open, and not pull the twine ends through the knot. Too much tension will make the knot hang on the bill hook after the stripper wipes the knot. The knot will be successfully tied, and will be pulled off by the bale, but excessive tension serves only to increase knotter wear. There should be just enough tension on the jaw to pull the ends through the knot. The thing to do first, is get an assistant to turn the flywheel through a knotting cycle, slowly, with hay in the chamber, while you watch what's going on. Then use tractor power to pump a couple pads past your test knot, to clear the mechanism and get the twine laying in position to be tied.
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