I live in N. Maryland, and the mid-Atlantic humidity can be brutal. I generally cut in the morning, and try to tedd hay as soon as I finish cutting. Especially with first (and heaviest) cutting, I usually tedd it again the second day on the ground, and will wait until the next day to bale, unless the humidity is down and the heat is up. Hay will get a 'crunch' to it when it is dry enough to bale, and no tough spots in clumpy areas. It will also rake easily and cleanly. Often, the color has a 'bluish' hue to it. It has to be extra dry to go into a round bale and store well. Most modern round balers pack a lot of material into them, and once made, a round bale will mold before drying out below storable levels. Hay has to be dry to really store well, which is the only 'plus' I see to small squares- they will dry some in the field and hay mow if some air can get to them. You can also 'skun' the side of the stalk and see moisture still present. Dry hay will not peel, where moist material will.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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