Just another line of thinking. If you don't need low clearance to operate under trees, then a common smaller gas ag (rowcrop) tractor from the mid 50's to early and mid 60's can be inexpensive, reliable, relatively econmical to run, simple to work on, and relatively cheap to repair. An IH 300, 350, 460, 400, 450, 560 Oliver 77, 88, Super 77, Super 88, 770, 880, Case 400, 730, Allis Chalmers WD, WD45, D14, D15, D17, Massey Ferguson 50, and 65 are some good candidates if you find one in good condition. They should all have live PTO, live hydraulics and maybe power steering yet cost between $1500 to $2500 without a loader, about the cost of a large riding lawn mower. These all have dry brakes and simple hydraulic systems that are easy to repair. Condition of the tires is about half the value of these tractors. An after market 3 point hitch can be added for $500 to $1000 (Saginaw, Workmaster?, etc.). The smaller tractors often were not the big horse on the farm , so they were not worked as hard and are not completely worn out. They were made in high numbers so new and used parts are availble at reasonable costs.
Low clearance utility tractors are very handy and already have a 3 point hitch, but they command higher prices. Newer tractors are more comfortable to operate. I like the New Generation Deere 3010, 2020, IH 574 and other late 60's early 70's tractors but they cost more, they are still at least 40 years old and with their more complicated hydraulics, repairs can get into many $1000 real fast.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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