Like another reply suggests, the one on the right is protruding enough to weld to. That being the case, no more than it is sticking out, it would be easier to weld a washer to it first, and then a nut to the washer. Apply a penetrant of some type to it as it cools and once completely cool it will usually back out.
For the one broken off below the surface, what I do to find center is to use a transfer type center punch where the shank is the same size as the bolt hole. Even on a shallow hole it's not that hard to get one the right size close enough to center to work. If you don't have one of those punches, a standard center punch and a good eye will work just as good. The main thing is start with something like a 1/8 bit to insure it stays in the punch mark, and then increase in size from there.
Personally if the piece doesn't come out with a hole and a easy out, I'll use a small carbide burr to eat away the material of the piece until I can see the tops of the threads. Once I see the threads I'll use a punch I ground special to pick the remainder out. Hope yours doesn't get to this point because it's a royal PITA to do this way. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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