I am sure this will start an argument; however, I would advise that you size the replacement electric pump for a flow similar to the OEM pump. If you have bored the engine or otherwise increased the engines power output you should consider a higher flow rate.
Water carrys heat from the engine to the radiator where it is rejected to ambient air. It takes 8.33 btu of heat to increase the temperature of 1 gallon of water by 1 degree F. A higher flow rate will maintain your engine at a more even temperature. For example: Lets assume the OEM water pump has a flow rate of 1 gallon per minute and the engine rejects 833 btu per minute into the coolant water. The water will need to exit the engine at 100 degrees F hotter than it entered to carry away 833 btu per minute. Now if you reduce the flow rate to say 0.5 gallon per minute the water temperature has to increase to 200 degrees F to carry away the same btu each minute. A 200 degree temperature rise would likely result in boiling however it is also much too large a temperature variation throughout the engine block etc.
Cooling systems are continous flow, there is always water in the radiator - it does not have to sit there to cool down.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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