I am sure this will start an argument; however, I would advise that you size the replacement electric pump for a flow similar to the OEM pump. If you have bored the engine or otherwise increased the engines power output you should consider a higher flow rate.
Water carrys heat from the engine to the radiator where it is rejected to ambient air. It takes 8.33 btu of heat to increase the temperature of 1 gallon of water by 1 degree F. A higher flow rate will maintain your engine at a more even temperature. For example: Lets assume the OEM water pump has a flow rate of 1 gallon per minute and the engine rejects 833 btu per minute into the coolant water. The water will need to exit the engine at 100 degrees F hotter than it entered to carry away 833 btu per minute. Now if you reduce the flow rate to say 0.5 gallon per minute the water temperature has to increase to 200 degrees F to carry away the same btu each minute. A 200 degree temperature rise would likely result in boiling however it is also much too large a temperature variation throughout the engine block etc.
Cooling systems are continous flow, there is always water in the radiator - it does not have to sit there to cool down.
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Today's Featured Article - Bad Vibes - by Curtis Von Fange. One of the strangest ways to communicate with our tractor is to ask it how it feels. "Ask it how it feels," you say? Yup, ask it how it feels. Now, as with the other articles in this series one has to be able to hear what 'ole blue' is trying to say in response. The nice thing about our old iron friends is that they are usually quite consistent in their response, rather unlike some people I know who might change what they say due to the weather or other mitigating circumstances. But since t
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