From what I know about the history of the tractor, the rings I have removed are the original. After spending some time with a rigid cylinder hone, I have confirmed that the bore is indeed tapered. In an ideal world, I would have the block bored .045 over and install new pistons.
This tractor is primarily a cultivator tractor. I am changing the rings in an effort to balance the compression between cylinders and make it a little easier to start. I'm not trying to return the tractor to 'like new' condition, so a bit of blow-by is not a problem.
The pistons came without too much trouble. The #1 compression rings had a 1.5" end gap (one of the pistons actually still had broken bits of ring that had been rounded over floating in the groove). The other rings had about .350" end gap. Changing the rings will reduce the gap by 50%.
Pulling the block to have it rebored isn't financially feasible right now. The rigid hone reduced the ridge on the bottom of the bore, but it is still present on the top. Since I need the tractor back in operation for spring, I think I can either reinstall the old rings or find a way to get rid of the ridge. It sounds like the reamer might worth a try.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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