Posted by JML755 on January 27, 2013 at 06:09:45 from (24.192.222.226):
In Reply to: OT: hardwood flooring? posted by mike henry on January 27, 2013 at 00:00:30:
mike henry,
I just installed over 900 sq ft of 3/4" red oak hardwood on a osb sub-floor and 15# tar paper as a moisture barrier. Lumberliquidators.com website has instructions online, which will help you determine installation method for whatever product you choose. Personally, I like the 3/4" product over the laminate. The house we just bought has a laminate product in the kitchen right next to the new hardwood floor and there's no comparison. The laminate looks "plasticky" and there's a major difference in how it feels when you walk on it. But...... the 3/4" oak requires more skill to install and if you get the unfinished (as I did) you've got to sand the floors and then finishing takes a day or so plus it takes up to 2 weeks to fully cure the finish. They do make the 3/4 in pre-finished so that's an option.
BTW, We were going to leave the kitchen alone as the floor is not in bad condition but after putting in the new 3/4" floor, we've decided to replace the laminate with red oak. The laminate product the previous owner used is not glued down. It's floating and it will lift right up with a shop-vac at the edges.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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