Lou, with bluing preparation is the key. What you ahve to do is to remove ANY trace of oils, vanish, grease, anything that will get between the metal and the bluing. The way we cold blued guns at the shop was to degrease with mineral spirits and a scrub brush followed by a second rub down with either clean mineral spirits or a spray with ether. (BE CAREFUL! FLAMABLE!!!) Then we would take fresh 4/0 steel wool and degrease that thoroughly. Steel wool comes with preservative oils on it. Get it really clean and rub the metal down with the SW lubed with fresh mineral spirits or acetone. (Don't worry about the 4/0 steel wool hurting the finish, It's what the gunsmith uses to polish the barrel before he blues it.) Then we'd immediately start applying the cold blue with a fresh cotton ball or even a paper towel. Let the blue work for a few minutes and then start polishing the metal. Honest truth, either 4/0 steel wool or those coarse brown paper towels like you used to get in the mens room at a truck stop worked best. See if there are streaks or uneven spots to the blue. If there are, degrease some more and repeat. When you get an even blue/black appearance only then can you go to the oiling. All this has to be done fairly quickly because bluing is actually a form of rust and if you leave it unprotected over night you run a real good risk of having a rusty gun in the morning. You have the option of repeating the cold blue application several times.
Cold blue won't always last as well as hot blue, but if you keep it oiled it lasts surprisingly well. Getting it to match the factory blue is very difficult. Some cold blues will "freckle" when applied over factory and some will be several shades lighter or darker or more blue or purple or brown than black. I've never used the product you mention. My favorite was a Brownells product called Oxpho IIRC. THey had another called Dicropan or something that was good too.
Oh yeah, warm the metal with a blow drier before you apply the blue, it seems to make all kinds work a lot better.
This post was edited by Bret4207 at 15:47:15 12/22/12.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Search For Spares - by Anthony West (UK). Following on from the aquisition of the old Fordson F, I was very much in need of spares. As a novice though I didn't appreciate the fact that there were so many Fordson tractors made, that all the other makes seem rare by comparison. As far as I was aware a fordson was a fordson and it was only through trial an
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
