it really depends on when you plow,if i am leaving it over the winter,i just plow.if i am starting in spring i disc, plow ,disc. the reasoning behind this is simple. by discing first ,as you say it loossens the soil on top. when you turn this under it leaves less air spaces,and gives a better contact with the subsoil to aid in pulling up moisture.discing afterwards of course closes the remaining air spaces,and leaves you with a compact seedbed,breaks up clods ,levels and all the rest.of course in sand or something it probably wouldnt make much difference,but thats the theory behind it. lately ive started using a disc plow more than a moldboard. it breaks my soil up better much like a disc,but leaves more trash on top to help stop the wind erosion some. of course if it doesnt break loose and rain soon nothing will help.i sure am glad ive got most of mine planted back to grass,out of the 2000 i was farming once i have about 20 acres left to plant and i'll be done farming. i planted it in oats and ryegrass in the only rain weve had in 4 months,a whole whopping .2 inches.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers WD45 (Gas Version) - by Staff. Beginning production in 1953, the WD45 had the same general look as the WD tractor which was produced earlier - but was much more powerful. This was due to the new 4-cylinder "Power Crater" gasoline engine with a 4 x 4-1/2 inch bore and stroke. Some people feel this was one of the most significant tractors offered by Allis-Chalmers in those days. Nothing in its weight or power class could match its performance. In 1954 they began offering the WD45 with the new "Snap-Coupler&quo
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