Like another post stated, one of the biggest problems is the extended change interval meant the plug was usually siezed in the head and broke when you tried to remove it. Instead of driving it until it drops and then paying through the nose to get someone with all the special tools to remove broken plugs, and possibly also have to repair the threads in the head, go ahead while the miles are still relatively low and do the job yourself. My suggestion would be to spray some PB Blaster around the plug and let it set for a few days before doing anything. Once it has had a chance to soak remove the plugs and replace then with new ones. Many manuals say to install plugs dry, but I've always put a little bit of high temp antisieze (the silver kind)on plugs I'm installing and have never known it to cause a problem. About the only thing it does do is keep the plug from siezing and make it alot easier to remove to change the next time. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: Winterizin Engines - To Drain or Not to Drain? - by Staff. Another great discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "Winter is fast approaching..for a gas tractor should the gas tank be drained and run the engine til the carb is dry or do the gas stabilizer products I've heard of work? (tractor will not be used til spring) any other tips for winterizing?? "
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