I put one on a Troy-Bilt Horse rototiller that my neighbor gave me, to replace the B&S flathead that had blown the connecting rod out the side of the crankcase. Except for needing to buy some metric fasteners, it bolted right up and has worked just fine for two years. It always has started right up and seems to have plenty of power for the formerly 8 horsepower tiller. How long will it last? I don"t know, but for about a third of the price of an OHV B&S, I"ll sure try it.
On the tiller, the engine operates at an angle rather than being level. I had to disconnect the low oil shutdown switch to compensate for this and I run the unit with much more oil in the crankcase than it was probably designed for, to make sure there is plenty of oil around the crank when it needs to dip.
Some years ago, I bought a replacement 10 horsepower Tecumseh for another tiller. What a piece of junk! I could never get it to run right. The Harbor Freight engine is immensely better, in my opinion, and a heck of a good buy for that price. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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