Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help with J.D. BO
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Posted by Dave Wickman on June 10, 1998 at 11:06:07:
In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help with J.D. BO posted by Dave Wickman on June 10, 1998 at 10:22:46:
: : : : : : Late last year we lost our tractor man,when he died not only did he leave us with the memories of a great man,he left us with a tractor in the shop.I dont beleive any man can rest properly with a project still in the shop.I've tried over and over to get it running right but nothing workes. please help me finish the work that my father in law (and my best friend) started and did not get a chance to finish. I have very big boots to fill and will take any help I can get. The tractor is a 1935 John Deere BO sn. 325502 Thankyou!
: : : : : Jeff If I can be of some help please contact me and let me know what I can do for you. I know what You are going through! I am a fellow tractor collector and restorer myself, Have restored many J.D. Two cylinder tractors in the past sevral years including my 1938 J.D. BI. My love of this hobby and 20 years of J.D. dealer service experience I am sure I can be of some help. My B Indutrial has the same engine and basic Power Train as your B Orchard. I do alot of carb and mag work also. If you ever heard my BI run I wound not have to tell you that I can
: : : : : make them run right! So if its information you can use, I would be more than happy to share what I know. Let that special memorey live on by finishing up this very special prodject. Good Luck!!! Dave W. Iowa : : : : Dave:
: : : : Thank you for your offer of help, I do need it. Last year he started restoring the BO, when he pulled it out of the pasture the engine was stuck and it was in bad shape. He went through everything and had never had any trouble with any other tractor he restored, but this one would not run right. When he last worked on it he was thinking that it might be the carb. so that was the first place I started I went through many times and found nothing wrong. next, since its runing rough, hard to start, and poping back through the carb. I thought it might be the timing, Iwent through the timing gears and they were all lined up and good, next we noticed that air was sliping into the manafold and took it in and got it surfaced. I thought for sure that got it but it dident. The next step I think is to take it all the way down and start over again. If you or anyone else have any other ideas please let me know. thank you! : : : : Jeff:
: : : Sounds like you have yourself a hairpuller, With the information you shared you already have covered the most obvious. Usally popping back through the carb is caused by the engine running to lean? Carb or an intake leak. Does the tractor idle and pop back only at higher rpm or does it do it all the time? Resurfacing the manifold was time well spent! This is a common oversight. Was the intake passage of the manifold inspected? It is rare to find this but I have seen it, the exhaust will burn its way or a hole into the intake causing exhaust gases to enter the intake passage and result is this problem. My first suggestion would be to recheck the valve cleances again and also check to see if possibly that there might be a valve hanging up? Maybe you can give me some more information like, Does the tractor run bad all the time or just when it is warm/cold? Will the tractor slow idle with the choke off? Does it gallope when it does idle? and if it does, Does it die when you hold the throttle shaht in a slow idle posistion? Can you make fuel mixture adjustment to the carburator and does the tractor engine respond to these adjustments. If any of these suggestions do exsist I would still suspect Carb, Manifold, or Valve failure. A few more questions and that is what do you have to do to get the tractor to start, Do you strart it by hand or do you pull it? Does the mag impulse and produce a good blue spark? What make and model of mag do you have on it? Usally if the tractor will start by hand the mag is not at fault, with maybe the rare exception of the condenser! Check out these suggestions and let me know what you find. The more information you can give me the more help I can be. Good Luck!! : : Dave:
: : Yes it is a hairpuller! I will try to tell you all I can about what's going on with the tractor. first of all its poping back through the carb all the time. and its running bad all the time, When its cold and when its warm. Once we do get it started (sometimes it takes awhile) it wont die, and we can make adjustments to the fuel mixture. It does have good spark and I had the mag bench tested and it worked perfect. when I start it I start it by hand. one other thing that might help is that when i first started working on it I thought it might be the timing so I took the cover off to see if the marks were lined up. they were lined up but i moved over two or three teeth just to see what would hapen. what happend was it ran better but it was very very hard to start im not sure why but it allmost sounded right. could that be something to look at again? or do I just not know what im doing at all. on i different subject, im leaving town until the 27 of the month so dont think im brushing you off ill check my computer as soon as i get home. thank you again dave. : : Jeff:
: : Sounds like we can start narrowing the possiblities down! I am pretty sure your problem is not ignition related, so we can rule out the mag. I don't think your problem is carb related ethier by what you are telling me, as a double check, (Optional) You could get a known good carb from another tractor and see how it ran, it would defintly rule carburation in or out. Any unstyled B carb (DLTX 10) is the same. I suggest that you get your cam timming back to where it belongs before doing this. Cam and crank timming marks are viewed from inside of the crankcase By taking the top crankcase cover off. The only way the cam timming could be off is if the timming marks are not matched. Camshaft can only be installed one way on the cam gear. (Goof Proof) I still think your problem lies in ethier the manifold or valving as I suspected in my previous letter. This popping through the carb must be caused by,engine running lean due to ethier manifold gasket leak, or hole through to exhaust chamber, or valve leakage caused by improper valve setting or valve(s) hanging up in valve guide(s)while running or valves simply not seating correctly. You already have plained your manifold so that should rule out manifold gasket leakage.Jeff please don't take my suggestions wrong, I am not trying or want to sound like I am picking on antbody's work. I think you will get it figured out just hang in there. I also will be out of town for a week starting on the 6/14/98 I will watch for your return meesage. Untill then; Dave Wickman
: Jeff:
: Had another thought after sending you the last message. I don't know what type of magneto you have on your tractor, But here is one I had happen to a freind of mine one time when he had taken a mag off and couln't get it to run right afterwards. Depending on the model of mag, some fire on TDC (Top Dead center) of commpression and Exhaust stoke. These mags are easy and pretty well goof proof to install,(Wico model C and X) If you install it a half turn off you can reverse the plug wires and they will run fine. On the other hand if you have the type of mag that fires only on commpression stroke, There could be a timming issue? First the mag has to be installed on tractor correctly and second the mag has to be assembled correctly? Timming on a test bench is not relative to the tractor, the mag would function fine and produce a good spark but may not be able to be timed correctly to the drivetrain of the tractor engine. I am afraid this may sound confusing and I can clear my mind of this possiblty if you can get me the make and model of your mag. I just don't want to send you on a wild goose chase. A common fact about trouble shooting is it is easy to overlook the simple things. Check this out and let me know what you find. Good luck, Dave
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