Here's the problem if you have TWO wires going to the coil on one side and one wire going from the coil to the distributor you have a start by-pass. One of those wires is only hot when you have the starter energized (full 12V)and the other one (the resistor wire or 6V) is hot when the key is on. If you use the regular wire your tractor will only run when you have the starter engaged/powered, if you use the resistor wire your coil won't be getting the 12V it needs to work properly so you'll always be fighting weak spark. So you're going to have to replace the wire from the key switch to the coil (resistor wire)with a regular wire or get the right coil. If it were mine I'd get the right coil, don't have to butcher up the tractor wiring and John Deere did know what they were doing, the way they built it you have "hotter" spark to help starting. You've eliminated that with the high resistance coil
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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