Yeah, I'd bite the bullet and do it right the first time. I built mine and had limited parts. Used the hydraulics on a Ford 3000 which doesn't have a lot of pump volume even though it puts out over 2kpsig of pressure....Once I got a large enough cylinder on there, (rebuilt it a couple of times) not a 4" but a 3" I had on hand, it does pretty good, just takes forever.....obviously the larger the piston the more area has to be filled with fluid and the longer it takes.
On tough jobs, the top of the wedge is exposed, like the picture posted here, and I have a large sledge hammer which I give it a smack when the pump's pressure relief pops off. That helps.
I don't split all that much wood and didn't figure buying anything would justify the task.
One thing I did learn and that was to split it the way it grows...bottom to top. You can put a log on there the wrong way and nothing will happen; turn it around and presto.
Other thing is to have a sharp pointed entrance and after a couple of inches put a wedge on the blade. I notice some storebought units only have a sharpened piece of steel. I guess if you have a big piston and 2 stage pump that works ok, but for the cobbled up system, it doesn't work...it just goes down into the wood and sits there....no split.
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - Tractor Engine Repair - by Teri Burkholder. One of the great things about working on a tractor engine with your other half is that you know what he is thinking of at all times and can anticipate his every move and his next thought of what he will do. With Ben, anyway, I can tell! He'll be busy working and I�m handing him tools and he says, "give me that..." and I�ve already got it in his hand or "hand me that....."and I�ve got the portable light right where he needed it placed to see. "Run in the house and get me a...."as I open th
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