Posted by BushogPapa on August 23, 2012 at 08:40:49 from (173.88.51.117):
In Reply to: Head Torque posted by jdgreen on August 23, 2012 at 06:15:15:
Torque, I cannot help you with..
Sealer is ok, just do NOT get it on or near the ring that seals nearest the piston..
It is fairly common for them to seep some (at first) on the upper, outside area until heated up to FULL Temp and Re-Torqed.. I prefer to put a thin HARD washer over the Lead washer on each Head bolt..it keeps the lead from squeezing out and making it hard to get a wrench on the nut.. That Lead can be Mighty Sharp, too... Use a "Running Torque" on the Head bolts.. That is, back the nut off a small amount and then torque it to Spec.. I like to use some light oil on the threads, for a more accurate Torque, too.. Remember; The Re-Torque MUST be with the tractor at FULL (Heat-Soaked) Operating Temp..NOT just "warmed-Up"... Disc a couple acres or something before you re-torque... Don't forget to re-adjust the Valve clearances.. Ron.
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Today's Featured Article - Haying Before Tractors - by Owen Clark. Hi guys! At age 8 (1927, am now 79) I was learning how to drive a stacker team on the old homemade A-frame wooden stacker, on three of my uncles` dairy farms in Star Valley Wyoming (south of Jackson Hole, on the Wyoming-Idaho border). There was one steam tractor in the Valley, owned by an entrepeneur who used it to run his grain threshing machine, that he hauled from farm to farm for the fall harvest. We used teams of horses not only on the stacker, but on the buckrake to buck the dried
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