I have an old cheap plywood blade that didn"t cut plywood very well anymore. So when I needed to cut some sheet metal, I used that, put in backwards. It worked just fine, extremely loud though. I made a lot of cuts with that blade, which is now just about toothless--worn almost smooth.
The only problem I ever had was that since the blade melts the sheet metal, it leaves a small amount of burned edge. That isn"t much of a problem if that burned edge is covered up with other metal, but it doesn"t look as good as an edge cut by a shear and it might be a place that could rust.
As far as using tinsnips goes, I could never get a decently straight edge. Maybe I needed higher quality snips though. Using tinsnips is also WAY slower than using a blade in a power saw.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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