I'm not a painter but I have a few pretty nice looking tractors. The first and most basic rule for me is: Don't use expensive paint over a five hour prep job, and don't use cheap paint over a fifty hour prep job. Red is more susceptible to fading than any other color. The next step for you if you decide to take the mission is paint and rust removal. Most here use a cup style twisted wire brush in a grinder. To do a good job you will need to remove a lot of parts like the air cleaner, battery, ignition coil, generator, starter, so that you can clean behind them and get paint on the backside of the parts. Most people that work on old rusty stuff use acid wash to get the rust out of pits in steel and cast iron after removing all visible rust. The phosphoric converts the rust into inert iron phosphate, and prevents it from bubbling up after 2-3 years. As with anything else you must follow the directions on the product container, and take proper common sense steps to insure that you are not shooting your primer over water. There is a whole lot more, but one item that I have not seen is to insure adequate lighting, to insure good smooth final prep and level and even paint application. If you just go back over the paint and body work forum you can read for a few hours on the subject, and it is a wealth of knowledge from pros.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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