A lot of the older engines could take a fair amount of abuse as far as oil changes go, unless they are hot rodded.
Back in the late 90's Chrysler's 2.7 was a bad one for seizing up at 70,000 miles from poor oil change intervals. We had one from new and from what I read on a website aimed especailly at the 2.7, the oil pan was a quart too small and the oil was over-used. The sludge buildup on top of the heads eventually plugged the drains and all of the oil ended up in the heads and none in the pan. This was an oil starvation problem, not a wear problem from lack of oil changes.
Ours was an 06 and we changed oil religiously every 2000 miles but I cot cold feet and traded it off at 35000 miles.
My granddaughter bought a pontiac with the 3800 in it and 214000 miles on the clock. Doesn't seem to burn oil and there are no extra nioses. When my son went to drain her oil for her he had to stick a screwdriver up in the hole to get it to drain, so that tells us how often the oil was drained by the previous owner. So there's a comparison between one of the most fragile engines built and one of the toughest. I'm not saying you should run oil in a 3800 till it turns to molasses but some engines can live with old oil longer than others can under the same driving circumstances. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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