If it ONLY runs when the starter pedal is depressed, its NOT getting coil voltage via the ignition switches IGN output via any resistor (even if shorted around) then to the coil. If you turn the ign switch ON,,,,,,THERE MUST BE VOLTAGE TO THE COIL (starter engaged or not) and if not,,,,,,,,again theres no voltage at the switches IGN output or a break/open in the circuit from there to the coil via the ballast or its shunt by pass. A simple test lamp will show where voltage is or is not when the switch is ON and again if theres none at the coil when ON she can only run when the starter is engaged.
If the ballast were by passed and its still a 6 volt stock coil (i.e. wasnt changed to a 12 volt coil) the coil will overheat and the points burn up quickly. If it was changed to a 12 volt coil and the resistor was shorted around it will start n run and the coil wont overheat butttttttttt it should still have coil voltage with switch ON
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let�s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I�ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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