JD don't know for sure but I'm thinking that when Deer designs something that has some type of filter their engineers know what the max PSI is plus just how much flow a filter has to have at the end of it's life to work and then buy accordingly. If an aftermarket filter allows bigger particles to pass through the systems it's bad as we all know. If it stops more that the OEM then it may restrict flow to the point of damage. That means that the OEM filter is most likely better than something like Fram but not as effective as another brand but meets both specs of size and life. If using a smaller micron filter it may require changing more often than OEM. So the "better filter" may remove more and small stuff but isn't meeting flow specs.
As far as hard parts are concerned for equipment I think most often you are right, OEM is the way to go. The biggest exception would be in internal engine parts. Some after market engine kids are just fine but I would be real careful about tranny or hydraulic parts. Few years ago I rebuilt an Onan CCK twin air cooled engine. I check prices with Onan (OUCH!!!) Sealed Power (OUCH again) at a parts store then was talking to a retired JD mechanic who told me to check with JD as they had used some Onans in garden tractors. Low and behold they had the best prices by far! About 1/2 of Onan and 2/3 of the parts store prices.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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