i dont understand why you would need a center beam,with properly sized lumber and a fourteen ft span,BUT the THEORY behind not having a joist running both ways is that one or the other would have to be toe nailed reducing its strength.If of course they were evenly spaced.two headers,with joists end nailed through then nailed together simply would make it stronger.As far as tying to the house goes,done properly it doesnt hurt,not done properly causes all sorts of problems.The main one is water infiltration into the joint causing rot in both structures.the PROPER way to tie onto your house would be to remove any siding etc down to the framing structure or outside sheathing.install your connecting lumber,whatever that may be,then install a flashing under the remaining siding,over the top and side of your header.this keeps moisture from collecting between the new deck header and the house. of course,having your deck frestanding eliminates these problems also,but its sometimes not feasable to do that,such as with a cantelivered deck,one built over an existing concrete slab that you would have to penetrate or remove to add support posts etc.the decision to have a freestanding or attatched deck is quite often determined by site requirements.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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