Having worked for a company doing plumbing repair for awhile some years ago, I have to say the replies saying to hire someone with a camera are right on. I say this because even though you always hear that water 'runs downhill' that isn't always the case. Actually it will run in the path of least resistance. Typically that is downhill but when the path runs uphill right beside the trench the pipe was laid in, etc, etc, that's where it will go.
In other words you can try dye, you can try air, you can try anything you want, but in the end there is no guarantee that where you find the dye, hear the air, etc, etc will be where the leak is actually coming from. Heck we had a house with a leak under the backside of a slab once where the leak first showed up slightly downhill, and nearly 40 feet from the house, at the meter. That was way before cameras came into common use and as such was a royal PITA to find.
Too, do some calling around. depending on where the leak is there are numerous products out there that can be used to slip line the pipe and repair the leak without actually having to do any digging at the actual leak site. In many cases they can dig and access the line from somewhere that's not under the slab and work the tools into place from there.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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