Be very careful assessing the rust. You could be buying a problem that will only get worse. That would be a pretty high price for a bin of that size in our area, but I am quite a ways from you.
We have moved 2 bins in the last few years. The smaller one, 18', we unbolted the top half and lifted with a truck crane and a lifting device made for that purpose out of a tire. The tire was steel braced and was too big to pull through the top hole. Put the tire in through the side door, hooked the cable to it through the top hole, lifted it up. Needed a crew on scaffolding around the bin taking out the last few bolts and spreading the sheets to release it from the bottom half. Set it on a full-support cribbing structure on a long lowboy, strapped it down, and hauled it a few miles with a tractor. Unloaded the same way. Bisect-braced the top of the rest of the bin with a long thin elm tree cut to length, then lag bolted through heavy plated into the side seams with several lag bolts. Picked with a cable spreader and special brackets made for that purpose. Elm tree kept the shape of the bin. Not as bad a lift, hauled the same way. NO WIND!! Poured the slab ourselves, neighbors borrowed the crane, we moved three that way. Very short haul, though, over back roads, no overheads, could do with tractors so no DOT issues.
The second bin was 21'6". The 6th or 7th person I called finally took the job. The floods here last year caused grain storage issues at the main depots, ethanol plants, and elevators (trains were cut off, two depots in flood area). Everyone was putting up bins, so no bin movers or builders available. We put on a new bottom ring because of some rust on the old bottom ring. It cost 1/2 to 2/3 of new, but it the accessories had been overbuilt when it was new, so we thought it was worth the extra cost. Check your cost of new in your area and add 25% to your original estimate for moving it.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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