I would wire brush it to bare iron, cut strips of aluminum (20 gauge to 16 gauge in thickness to cover the holes plus 3/4 inch lap onto good. Then I would use windshield cement (urethane) or door and window sealer (urethane) in a caulking frame, to lay down beads under it. Then sheet metal screw every 3 to 4 " to smash the sealer (put a disposable plastic sheet inside to avoid irritation that you didn't) After screwing it down evenly (more is better) Cover the outside with the same sealer spreading it with a putty knife like decorating a cake. Do not use silicon sealer, or painters caulk, or roofing cement, they are no answer. (urethane it is) It will take several days to cure completely but it will last. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: Winterizin Engines - To Drain or Not to Drain? - by Staff. Another great discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "Winter is fast approaching..for a gas tractor should the gas tank be drained and run the engine til the carb is dry or do the gas stabilizer products I've heard of work? (tractor will not be used til spring) any other tips for winterizing?? "
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