Absolutely. I always put a vapor barrier between the concrete and dirt and vent the roof. My last shop was 30 x 50 and had two 10' peak vents to get rid of the water. Additonally, I usually insulate the roof to keep condensation from dripping off the purlins on everything in sight. On really humid days where a temp inversion is coming about....interior is cold from the night before, and the incoming air is warmer, a lot of sweating goes on. Keeping the outside air at bay (keeping the big doors closed helps) but by the next day things are nice and dry.
Running a fire in there burns air and a lot of times generates a lot of moisture that the heat drives out of the air; not necessarily good. If you are going to do the fire, vent so that the moist air can escape. Then your heat money will be effective. BTDT
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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