I've had 2 of them, first one was a 2001, 24v 5 speed, 2500. I worked the snot out of it. Decent all around truck. I did quite a bit of work to it. Did ok til 150,000. At 150K put a front end in it. That was 3500 bucks. At 165K had to put a head on it, truck had never been hot on the gage but the head was blue and warped/cracked. Puking oil out of the radiator overflow bottle. Put injectors in it while the head was off and then had to put a pump on it. All of that and the the clutch started slipping. For what the head and injection work cost I could have bought a 460 long block, new, in a crate. I sold it with 289K on it for 10. It needed a transmission and a set of bearings in the front differential. Got about 17 mpg stock, 16 with +40 injectors.
Bought a 99 for the same money, 3500, 11 foot flat bed. So far its been a good truck. Nothing done to it but the front end so far. What Ive learned is that even stock, if you work them hard, put a pyro, boost, and fuel pressure gage rack on them. It surprising how hot the pyro will run in a long hard pull, even when the truck never lets on like its running hot up top.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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