I am not as knowledgable as some "cement" guys but I can tell you that the most important part of a concrete job is in preparing for it. The subsoil and your tree roots should be removed and gravel leveled in to desired grade,then the gravel should be packed down. You can use water to settle the gravel,or pack with a packer you can rent. If you use a water sprinkler to settle the gravel give it a few days to dry out after.When your slab is pured saw cut it in 8'squares and if there is any shifting it will crack along the saw cuts and not affect the appearance of your floor. We rent a diamond bladed saw from the local lumber yard,it works well and is easy to use,just chalk line where you want your cuts and follow the line with the saw,you only need to cut down about an inch. When I built my shop I used an old skill saw with a masonary blade..the dust was a bugger but in that first year the floor cracked right along the saw cuts and my floor still looks good. You can run a bead of chaulking along your cuts to the level of the rest of the floor,it keeps dirt out and the floor is easy to sweep or wash,but the floor will crack along those lines if you have frost ar any shift in the base..well worth the money to do the sawcuts..but you have to prepare your base for sure..good luck with your shop and you won't be disappointed for doing the extra work in preping.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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