If you are going to burn wood, and I would say from looking at your pictures, that would be the way to go. By having the firebrick in there it forces the fire closer to the pan bottom, thus getting a better boil. My commercial evaporator is set up much the same way, but I also fill it nearly up to the pan bottom with sand so that the fire runs closer yet to the pan. My back pan (flue pan) is what they call a raised flue pan,the botton is grossly corragated, the corrugations being about 8 incheds deep. this gives the pan bottom a lot more surface area exposed to the heat. (Irrelevant to your questions) The small pan/ compartment would be in the front, i.e., closest to the door. this will be cooler than at the back where the stack is. I think you will have fun with it! The other thing to do is to run at least a 6 inch stack and at least 10 feet tall. This gives a much better draft, thus a hotter fire but be prepared to really put the wood to 'er. Really, really dry wood is important also and there is nothing wrong with pine. I try to use pine whenever I can and prefer it. I dont see in the pictures but is there a draw-off valve on the small front pan so you can draw the finished syrup off? That way you won't have to be bailing it. ....Good sugaring! Cal
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Oliver 70 Row Crop - by Staff. The Oliver 70 was part of the "Fleetline Series" and was manufacturered from 1937 to 1948. The row-crop configuration could have either dual or single front wheels. The Oliver 70 was also offered in the standard, orchard and industrial configurations. The tractors were sold in Canada. An early advertisement states "Power when you want it - power when you need it - power to help put in crops when field conditions are right and time and help are limited. That's the power you'll find in an Oliv
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