Green is good (but parts are spendy), grey is good too... though we are both now partial to rust. Husband has a 1936 B JD, a 1936 Grey Farmall F20 (grey becaus it was made prior to Nov of 36) and our newest aquisition is a 1931 Farmall Regular that we will keep rusty.
My husband also wanted me to post this: when working on any tractor, the level of difficulty is determined by what shape it is in. Though JD are mechanically simpler machines... if you get one that is seized and missing a lot of parts, of course your project will be more difficult than buying one where the engine turns over and has all its components. He recommends getting one where the engine is NOT seized as it won't require as many tools or as much knowledge. He said if it is seized and missing a lot of parts, you may be in over your head for a first project - especially if you don't have a lot of tools or mechanical experience. Also, that if one does not have experience - one can actually damage/break a lot of parts when trying to tear a tractor down.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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