First issue is very sharp tools. Look at the tool as a shape that is never sharpened on the upper surface (ever) the under surface is sharpened at about a 20 degree rake angle (under bite). A fine grit grinding wheel followed by dressing the edge (same angle) with a 400 grit stone. then an Arkansas stone. Second tip. Keep the tool rest within 1/4" of the work at all times at the point you are working. Move it a lot, and never work more than 1/2 inch away or you will loose the tool in your forehead, not good. Use only seasoned wood and make double sure it has no checking or splits in it at all, ever. Splits will allow the wood to explode under the force of spinning. Not Good. Rough saw the stock to at least an octagon or hex to avoid radical out of balance, and orbital escape attempts that result. On long material, use a drive spur in 3/16" deep perpendicular saw cuts in the end of the stock. Use a mallet to set the spur into the slots. Drill the tail stock end so a live center will have a 3/8 to 1/2" deep hole to run in. If a dead center, lubricate it with bees wax, or parafin. Watch for heat to avoid burning the center if a dead center, as it needs to be tight enough to hold the spur firmly. Do not spin faster than 1000 RPM until it is fundamentally round. Use highest speeds only to sand and polish the wood not shape it. If turning bowels, use a face plate and glue the bowl blank to a scrap disk so the screws do not mar the bowl. Use deck screws, they hold better, and are not made of old Buicks. GLued up blanks for layered products must be alephetic resin, and cured for 2 days. Gorilla glue (read about the use of water during application) is great as well. Epoxy and one day is also OK. White Elmers in not OK. Hold the tool at the tool rest with a finger behind and against the rest to prevent it from oscillating as the shape is rounded. Always hold the butt end of the tool with your thumb over the top to prevent possible forehead penetration as above. I teach this topic in a university setting. Be safe, Jim
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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