Remove the main breaker from the panel. My guess is you will discover the breaker is bad. The place where the main connects to the buss bars is likely to be burned. Or where the wires connect to the main are arking.
Turn your power off by pulling your meter, which means you'll have to cut the tag. Unless you have an electrician do this for you, you'll have some explaining when the electric company discovers a cut tag.
Before you do that, go to Harbor freight and buy an Infra-red therometer. Turn everything on in the house, stove, water heater, furnace, lights, washer, dryer. Measure the temp of the main breaker where the main wires connect. You may have to remove some breakers to measure the temp where the main breaker connects to the buss bars. High temps will trip a breaker too.
I would also measure the current in both power wires. It may be possible you need to balance the loads so, the amp on your 110v loads are equal. Get an ammprobe. You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight too.
My guess is you have a bad breaker or bad connections to the main, which means you will need a new 100a breaker.
DON'T KEEP RESETTING THE MAIN. IT'S TRYING TO TELL YOU SOMETHING AND YOU ARE NOT LISTENING. FIND THE PROBLEM OR GET PROFESSIONAL HELP.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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