For your previous???,what you see just above the pump is the bypass....
Yes this is intended to be a sole heating source. We supplement by starting the stoves, when the stoves bring the room temp above 70 degrees or so, the radiator controls close...
rather than the extra mixers and stuff for the different floor heating temp, I just lowered the temp to where the whole system gets what the floor heat tubing will handle... Rooms aren't that big so you don't notice the difference...
Plan is to pull this unit out and put a new one in it's place, probably changing the connection valve/pump assembly also rather than scab...
There will be someone installing the new one, just want to be smart when they are telling me what's needed......
Only difference in the new setup will be a bigger domestic water tank with connections for solar in case the mood strikes. And I will enclose/insulate the boiler room better and add insulation to the water tank to keep the run time to a minimum....
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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