many ways of doing it,and quite honestly it depends on your feild and what you are trying to do.Weeds can be controlled most easily /economically by spraying,but be aware that often this kils also wanted plants such as clovers.Amendments such as lime fertilizer and such work best if they are worked into the ground.Simply spreading nitrogen on top for example is not very good and often has no result whatsoever.Because you simply lose the vast amount of it to the atmosphere.lime ,phosphorus,potash and things are more or less rock products or solids that if not incorporated often do more harm than good, because they rely on the soil moisture content to break them down into usable form.If you live in a area of limited rainfall they simply lie there doing nothing but making the ground have a hard surface layer.Liguid fertilizers and things cure some of these problems,but require more specialized equipment.A good pasture renovation plan begins NOT with a soil test,it begins by CORRECTLY identifying what plants you have now that you want to keep.Ones you want to ecourage and ones you want to discourage.If you want to turn a pasture of native grass for instance into a clover patch you probably would be better starting over.but if your wanting to add clover,you have to make a plan to get good seed to soil contact.If you have a feild of a sod forming grass,thats quite thick you can do a limited till with a disc set fairly straight to expose the soil. If you have a clump forming grass you want to encourage you must have clean ground between clumps because this is how it reseeds itself,do that by taking a old rake and picking up as much ground cover as possible or again by using a disc to expose clean soil. Some grasses such as fescue,have a bad habit of sort of thatching down,it gets so tall and then simply lays down creating a dense carpet thats hard to mow,bale etc because its laying down while growing. The answer then is to take a old side delivery rake,even a harrow sometimes and stand it up(or dethatch it) every couple of years just before you mow.In other words keep it growing straight enough and short enough it wont lay down. Bottom line is without knowing what you HAVE,what you WANT,and what you have to DO WITH,anything we tell you is simply a guess,REGARLESS of who it is.START with a PLAN that includes what you HAVE now,decide what you WANT, decide realistically what you have to DO WITH, then SOIL TEST for those plants you wish to thrive,next ADD admendments as needed,in the proper amount for those plants,then MAINTAIN properly for those plants,which may include even not mowing one year out of three to let it reseed itself or something of the nature.We can all tell you what we do,but that may work for you or it will be a dismal failure.The only tip i will give you thats even remotly universal is to split your pastures up,avoid overgrazing at any cost( which quite frankly,from the description of your pasture very well could be your problem altogether)or overharvesting.rehab one section of your grazing every year,this could be as simple as letting it set with no use letting it reseed and rejuvinate itself,or could be a totall rework.
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor - by Anthony West. The Nuffield tractor story started in early 1945. The British government still reeling from the effects of the war on the economy, approached the Nuffield organization to see if they would design and build an "ALL NEW" British built wheeled tractor, suitable for both British and world farming.
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