Re: compression check

Posted by NCWayne on January 02, 2012 at 14:05:13 from (69.40.232.132):

In Reply to: compression check posted by william e kershner on January 02, 2012 at 09:18:51:

I've seen gas engines run with compression in the 90 psi range so where your at between 120 and 145 I'd run it just like it is.

That said while others may think the dealers price sounds high they aren't comparing apples to apples. When I estimate a price on a rebuild of pretty much any engine nowdays the standard formula, that works 9 times out of 10, is $1500 to $2000 per cylinder. Those figures include parts, machine shop charges, labor for removing, and rebuilding the engine as well as putting it all back together after the rebuild. Then there also has to be a bit figured in for unexpected expenses like replacing a cracked head, sleeving or replacing a block that has already been bored to the max oversize, etc. etc. Basically you have to give a customer a figure that includes any problems that you forsee that you might run into so they go into the rebuild with open eyes. Think about it this way, if they told you it was going to be $4000 to rebuild, you agreed, so they started the job. After things were torn down and taken to the machine shop, who bored the block, polished/ground the crank, etc, etc. Then they started on the head only to find it was unusable and a replacement was $2000 and two weeks out. Put yourself in the dealerships place when they have to call a customer and say that the job they gave a price on was going to cost half again as much, and that regardless of what you wanted to do you still owed $2000 worth of shop time and machine shop charges so far.

I got put into that position by a amchine shop last year when the told me they had a head already complete for a customer, and were working on everyting else. At the lat minute they called and said they had NOT done the head, that it was cracked and I needed to find another one. Calling the customer and telling him that he needed to spend another $2000 plus to buy a head that I had already told him was complete didn't go over too well. Fortunately the guy was very understanding, given the circumstances, and didn't blame me for the problem...but things could have gone very differently and I could have got stuck with the bill for what had been done so far by the machine shop, as well as a farely good amount of labor and expenses I had invested just getting the thing pulled and to the point it was at. In my case the machine, a D6 CAT dozer, was sitting on the customers yard, but in the case of a dealership your tractor would either be taking up a bay for x amount of time which also costs them other work that could be there in it's place.

If you do the work yourself you can probably beat the dealership price by 1/2 to possibly 2/3, or call an independent who could probably also shave some off of the dealership price.

Either way your going to save a little money, but given what you say I'd save it all and run the thing just like it is unless it's slobbering oil uncontrollably, or knocking, or exhibiting any other signs that inducate it's getting ready to throw a rod, etc and boost the cost of a rebuild even higher.

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