To simplify it without explaining all the theory you need to RE wire the switch as follows:
BAT INPUT wire to the load side of ammeter if it has one,,,,,,,,,,,,or the wire up from the alternators big main output,,,,,,,,,or the hot battery post via a fuze protected circuit,,,,,,,,or another protected always hot voltage source
IGN OUTPUT wire to the coils input (NOT to distributor) terminal DO NOT WIRE IT TO THE ALTERNATOR AS YOU HAVE NOW thats not right !!!!!!
ACC ON SWITCH (if hot when switch is in acc or ON ;positions) "could be" used to excite the alternators small no 1 terminal but add a diode or 10 ohm resistor in that line to prevent run on HOWEVER I WOULD JUST ADD A WIRE TO ALTERNATOR NO 1 TERMINAL FROM THE COILS INPUT OR SWITCHES IGN OUTPUT WITH A DIODE OR 10 OHM RESISTOR IN SERIES
Alternators no 2 can wire to its big main output stud as voltage sense.
Thats my opinion and others may have a different one, try n see what fixes the problem
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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