This is the problem I had (in my estimation) with my 4230 JD that I thought was a really poor example of JD engineering. I bought the tractor, built in '79 in '04 and it had a 6 volt battery on each side of the tractor wired in series to develop 12v for the 12v system.
Problem with that setup is that the internal resistance of both batteries was in series with the starter. Therefore, when my 6v batteries started pushing current through my 12v starter, it didn't get 12v, rather 12v - the voltage drops on both batteries which could easily be 1 volt each even though it only took .005 ohms to drop that voltage at the 200 more or less amps it took to spin the diesel.
I had to replace batteries so I bought 2ea 12v replacement batteries (rather than 2ea 6v batteries) and wired them in parallel (+,+....-,-)
Now if my new batteries were to have the same .005 ohms internal resistance, the resistance is now in parallel, halving the current flowing through each resistance and the 2v drop now becomes 0.5 volts and my starter now gets 11.5 volts. Much easier to start when the tractor has been sitting and the batteries could be low on charge.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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