Posted by TonyIN on November 15, 2011 at 05:54:30 from (74.215.182.169):
In Reply to: Barn building OT posted by 504 on November 14, 2011 at 18:27:03:
I"m assuming the 2x4"s are free... As others have stated, probably not the best choice. Just remember, they were graded, milled, and produced to be studs, not joists. To get a feel for the difference, go to a lumber yard and see the difference between a 2x6 stud and a structurally graded 2x6 joist. But if they were free and you"re proceeding with it, there"s a few simple things to help the system -
1. The I-Beam section as mentioned earlier. Screw/nail AND glue together. Use a good adhesive and not drywall screws. Cabinet screws work better if you"re not using nails.
2. Any scrap rips of plywood? Sandwich those between 2 - 2x4"s and nail together in a staggered pattern. That system is one of my favorite methods to beef up a 2x header in the field when no LVL"s or engineered beams are available. Plywood has the benefit of glued layers of wood with grain running perpendicular each sheet.
3. Glue and ring shank/screw the subfloor to the 2x4 joists. It helps turn the 2x4"s in to little T sections and the pieces start to act together as a system.
Couple notes - adhesive should be a good quality construction adhesive meant for wood to wood bonding. Elmers wood glue probably won"t cut it. Screws - drywall screws were meant for fastening drywall. If you try, you can probably snap one in half. They were not meant to take a shearing type force that you will have in framing. Try that same action with a cabinet screw or a nail - you won"t snap them.
Last, as others have said, the better method is to use lumber rated for structural use (most 2x8"s and larger at the lumber yard are meant for this). And remember what or who may get under this... any little kids? your dog? Then weigh the costs of the better lumber.
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