Here is a truthful story about a straight weight episode. I recently changed the oil in my Jeep Cherokee. I always run a Castrol 30 w, nothing else. I use it in the Impala and the GMC that I bought new in 2006 and 2004 respectively. After changing the oil and the filter, I later headed out to diner in the Jeep. About 5 miles down the road I noticed that I had no oil pressure. I stopped, opened the hood and saw nothing wrong. I then restarted the engine and since I heard no noises, I continued down the road. I assumed that the oil pressure gauge had gone bad or that I had an electrical problem. About 5 miles later the engine began making some awful nosies and I knew it was indeed an oil problem. The old filter gasket stayed on the engine and I had tightened the new filter up and crushed the old gasket in ahead of the new filter.
I removed the gasket, retightened the filter, added 5 qts of oil and then restarted the engine. It made a little nosie and smoothed right out. That happened about 10K miles ago and it has been running fine since then. My point is that oils today coat metal so well that straight weights are perfectly acceptable. Heck multigrade , additised oils didn't really appear until the 60's. We used base oils in the old tractors, cars and trucks for years. I think multi grade oils have a place in extreme temperature scenarios, but straight weights work just as well.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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