Many different ways to wire it with no indicator light. Back when the 10SI was "modern", GM used exciter relays for some hookups (instead of an indicator light). Some were hooked to engine oil-pressure switches.
The alternator (unlike a brushed generator), does not have enough residual magnetism to "excite" itself and charge at normal RPMs although some will after being spun around 2000 RPM. So, a small amount of current must be fed to it, to create magnetism, to get it started. The problem is, once the alternator DOES charge, current can backfeed through that exciter wire to the IGN circuit and prevent you from shutting off the engine. This is especially true with diesels that use low-current shut-off solenoids in the injection pumps.
So - you can use a light bulb as a resistor (and charge indicator), or a diode, or a relay, or just install a $15 "self-excite" regulator and hook with just one wire.
$2 spent at your local Radio Shack is the easiest. j$2 will get you a four-pack of 6 amp/50 volt diodes at Radio Shack. Part # 275-1661. The 3 amp units e.g. 271=1144 and 276-1143 also work fine. If you use the smaller 3 amp units, hook two in parallel to be safe. A 276-1661 diode is all you need.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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