Soil structure has to be right. Climate zone needs to be right. Drainage needs to be right. Hybrid selection needs to be right. Equipment tailored to local conditions must be right. Having a handle on weed control is paramount. Commitment for the long term success must be there. It won't work over night. Don't expect a bin buster in the first year.
Keep equipment in the barn when ground is wet. More so than with conventional tillage.
Meet those requirements, and yields can be equal, or even HIGHER than conventional crops. No till isn't as simple as just sticking any seed into any ground and stand back. There's a learning curve to it. Get everything right and the potential for profit is golden. Expenses go down. (mainly fuel, but some reduction in equipment cost after a while)
I do a small acreage in conventional corn and most in no till. The no till yields are now consistently 10% to 25% better than my conventional crop. Took almost 10 years to see an advantage in yields, less than 3 to see an advantage in profits. After 20 years, I'm hooked. No till works to extremely well here.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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