Soil structure has to be right. Climate zone needs to be right. Drainage needs to be right. Hybrid selection needs to be right. Equipment tailored to local conditions must be right. Having a handle on weed control is paramount. Commitment for the long term success must be there. It won't work over night. Don't expect a bin buster in the first year.
Keep equipment in the barn when ground is wet. More so than with conventional tillage.
Meet those requirements, and yields can be equal, or even HIGHER than conventional crops. No till isn't as simple as just sticking any seed into any ground and stand back. There's a learning curve to it. Get everything right and the potential for profit is golden. Expenses go down. (mainly fuel, but some reduction in equipment cost after a while)
I do a small acreage in conventional corn and most in no till. The no till yields are now consistently 10% to 25% better than my conventional crop. Took almost 10 years to see an advantage in yields, less than 3 to see an advantage in profits. After 20 years, I'm hooked. No till works to extremely well here.
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Today's Featured Article - Choosin, Mounting and Using a Bush Hog Type Mower - by Francis Robinson. Looking around at my new neighbors, most of whom are city raised and have recently acquired their first mini-farms of five to fifteen acres and also from reading questions ask at various discussion sites on the web it is frighteningly apparent that a great many guys (and a few gals) are learning by trial and error and mostly error how to use a very dangerous piece of farm equipment. It is also very apparent that these folks are getting a lot of very poor and often very dangerous advice fro
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