Soil structure has to be right. Climate zone needs to be right. Drainage needs to be right. Hybrid selection needs to be right. Equipment tailored to local conditions must be right. Having a handle on weed control is paramount. Commitment for the long term success must be there. It won't work over night. Don't expect a bin buster in the first year.
Keep equipment in the barn when ground is wet. More so than with conventional tillage.
Meet those requirements, and yields can be equal, or even HIGHER than conventional crops. No till isn't as simple as just sticking any seed into any ground and stand back. There's a learning curve to it. Get everything right and the potential for profit is golden. Expenses go down. (mainly fuel, but some reduction in equipment cost after a while)
I do a small acreage in conventional corn and most in no till. The no till yields are now consistently 10% to 25% better than my conventional crop. Took almost 10 years to see an advantage in yields, less than 3 to see an advantage in profits. After 20 years, I'm hooked. No till works to extremely well here.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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one 8n and one 9n tractor. totaly restored,pretty much everything is new. one 6ft blade good shape.
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