1) Yes the stands are a big help in keeping the rebar up in the concrete where it needs to be.
2) 1/2 rebar on 3 foot centers is too far apart. I usually use mesh/old cattle panels/wire corn cribs. Anything as long as it is not rusty. If rebar alone then 1 foot on center in the door ways and edges. Then maybe 18 inches out in the lower stress areas.
3) Going 5 inches is the minimum. If you have heavy equipment then go 6-8 inches. Also dig footers at all door ways. I usually go at least three feet. It will hold up under loads. You will want to put loads of grain/hay/stuff in. The edges will break off is you don't put a footer at the doors.
4) Go with a #4000 lbs mix plus fiber. It will only add about $8-10 per yard and it will be much stronger. Plus the fiber will help it not crack. I just poured a cattle shed this last week. The concrete was right at a hundred dollars a yard delivered. That was #4000 mix with fiber.
5) As for cost to lay the concrete. Around me the standard rate on flat work is about double the concrete cost. Walls and basements are 2.5 times the concrete cost.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: Winterizin Engines - To Drain or Not to Drain? - by Staff. Another great discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "Winter is fast approaching..for a gas tractor should the gas tank be drained and run the engine til the carb is dry or do the gas stabilizer products I've heard of work? (tractor will not be used til spring) any other tips for winterizing?? "
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