I had a 2010 gas. Didn't have to go into the motor, but had a serious water leak into the oil, which I fixed with block sealer, luckily.
After I learned to store the tractor inside they were fewer hydraulic problems. The hydraulic filter is designed to be taken out and cleaned occasionally. I found that one time cleaning would work ok with a hydraulic oil change along with it, but after that I needed to buy a new hydraulic filter.
The transmission gave trouble, had it repaired, worked ok, but there are linkage adjustments on the left bottom of the transmission housing that needed attention. I never did get it to shift good in all gears.
Pto system was great. Operator platform was comfortable and well laid out.
All the 3ph components were heavy and well built.
Front axle strong. I used a loader on it. Not enough hydraulics to work the loader and power steering at the same time.
Some running issues were solved when I found the ignition switch was bad and replaced it.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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