Mark B - This is getting complicated, but here's been my erxperience; Barn, trusses on 4' centers; I've used SPF No. 2+ / SPF No. 3 2x4 lumber, spaced on 2' centers going up the rake. The spacing works well, however I've had to be very careful setting the screw-gun clutch so I don't strip out the screws. The wood is soft. Older House, leaving existing roof on; I've used 1x4 #2 & BTR KD white pine, on 2' centers going up the rake, because the wood is harder, and the screws do not stripo out. It has always worked well. The 1x4 is OK becuase it is resting on the shingles. Barn Shed; I've used 2x4 TREATED #1 KD-19-HT SPIB pine, on 2' spacing going up the rake, becuase t will get some condensation ovewr the years, and I dont' want it to rot away. The wood is hard enough the screws hold well. I'm glad I did this. Sorry for any confusion, I assumed the sort of wood we use around here is like taht all over; my mistake.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabricating Sidesheets - by Chris Pratt. The easiest and best first-time project for wanna-be sheet-metal workers like myself is flat or nearly flat metal cut and drilled to be a tractor's sidesheet. A sidesheet is sheetmetal to cover either the engine as in the case of early Oliver's, Massey-Harris' and many crawlers or the wiring and electrical components as in the case of the Massey-Harris Pony, Allis Chalmers' D Series (D-14, D-15, D-12, D-10, D-17, and D-19). The need for fabricating becomes obvious when you go to buy any of these
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