Few things come to mind; when digging the hole for one, over dig, make room for stone and say some filter fabric, hopefully the ground is well drained if you use it a lot. Also make sure all your connections are tight, if using poly ( black plastic ) use extra clamps on barbed fittings, hose clamps seem to strip easier now then they did in the past. Check for leaks. One tool that is handy to have set up for clamps is a 5/16" socket on a ratchet, or the appropriate size for the clamp if used. Screwdrivers don't do it for me on clamps.
Get a quality hydrant with a parts diagram, there is a chance you may have to work on one of these at some point, I just replaced 2 that were less than 10 years old. Good to know you can get parts for them. Also, check the casting of the hydrant, make sure it has a big enough "nub" near the spigot to hold a bucket handle, some castings leave just a little one, barely enough.
I'm referring to "in ground type hydrant", hopefully you are not referring to a wall hydrant or something else.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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