I know a guy running mostly recycled engine oil in diesel heavy pickup, gets the oil from oil changes in his shop. Oil goes through 3 filters before it gets to the fuel tank, so relatively clean. Ryder Rental trucks get the old oil into fuel tank treatment except in winter, similar filtering from drain pan to holding tank with filters then into fuel tank. For farm tractor use? Roosa Master pumps need a litle lube in fuel- that's why Roosa Master lube additive in cans is sold for twice the price of plain oil- and the early GM car pumps really needed the extra oil lube. Current ultra low sulfur road diesel is clean burn but may not be best for some older pumps- the use of BioDiesel is a 'iffy' situation also, some extra slippery, some extra dry depending on what goes into the 'Bio': Tallow, fresh soybean, recycled peanut, Canola oils vary. For some winter use users the fuel is 25% unleaded gasoline mix- the addition of good 2 stroke oil in a rough 50 to 1 for gasoline is a recommendation for the snowcats. Here in wisconsin winters a truck coming from the south with heavy diesel in tank is advised to add 10% unleaded and a can of straight 10 weight for every 10/20 gallons of gas put in tank- beats paying for overnight heated garage to thaw out lines or tow to service garage for pump out, thaw out. Tranny fluid with friction additive pack? Maybe the early Type F for Ford had some 'grabby' additive pack but the Dextron mix's are slippery, relatively high detergent to help clean. RN
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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